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Local chefs team up to bring gourmet dinners to Harvard

Chefs Paul Correnty and Chris Basile ham it up in the kitchen at Fruitlands while cooking for their cider dinner on Jan. 23. (Photo by Barbara Kemp)
Chefs Paul Correnty and Chris Basile ham it up in the kitchen at Fruitlands while cooking for their cider dinner on Jan. 23. (Photos by Barbara Kemp)
 
Who says there’s nothing to do in Harvard? Last Saturday night, there were two major events: The high school’s semiformal Snowball Dance and chefs Paul Correnty and Chris Basile’s cider dinner at Fruitlands. This reporter is a bit beyond the high school scene and so very happily attended the dinner.

The idea of pairing beverages other than wine with a menu seems a logical progression. In this case, the various hard ciders served were all produced in Colrain, Mass., at the West County Cider Winery, by Chef Paul’s friends Judith and Terry Maloney. The crisp, dry ciders made through use of heirloom apples and traditional methods complemented the food quite nicely.

The evening began with a welcoming glass of Redfield cider, poured as guests arrived and mingled. Once seated, the diners enjoyed an appetizer of seared scallops on a potato pancake with a garlicky spinach garnish and a tangy caper sauce. This delicious combination was paired with a Pippin cider, whose color and flavor enhanced the wonderful first course.

A crisp, refreshing salad was served next. Frisée and endive were dressed lightly and garnished with spicy-sweet walnuts, dried cranberries, and red onion. The centerpiece of the course was a rich round of locally produced goat cheese, evidence of both chefs’ commitment to promoting “eat local.” The salad was paired with a Roxbury Russet cider, made from the same type of apples used by the early English settlers of Massachusetts. Tart and fresh, it was perfect with the greens and cheese.

Saving the best for last. Dessert consists of flourless chocolate cake and cider-poached pear in a pool of caramel cream. (Photo by Barbara Kemp)
Saving the best for last. Dessert consists of flourless chocolate cake and cider-poached pear in a pool of caramel cream.
The main course was hearty New England winter fare. A generous serving of roast pork was the star, accompanied by an array of carefully prepared vegetables. Cider-braised red cabbage, sautéed kale, parsnip, and turnip purée, and roasted red potatoes were perfect in their supporting roles. For those not inclined to eat meat, several fish choices were outstanding alternatives. Both choices were paired well with a blended Heritage cider.

On a side note, the dinner began quietly; polite murmurings of dinner conversations were heard during the early courses. As we moved to the later part of the meal, conversations became more animated and spirited, especially as we approached dessert!

Dessert can only be described as a masterpiece. Cider-poached pear was nestled in a pool of caramel cream, accompanied by a wedge of delectably dense flourless chocolate cake with raspberries and a dollop of whipped cream. Although groans of “too full!” were overheard, this diner saw one intrepid soul go for seconds. Dessert matched well with a crisp, clean Baldwin cider. As the chefs and the Maloneys mingled after dinner, collecting well-earned kudos, diners were already asking about the next event.

Two more dinners are planned by the two chefs—a Fat Tuesday celebration on Feb. 16, and a St. Patrick’s Day feast on March 17. (More information is available at the Fruitlands and Quarterdeck websites) Like last Saturday’s event, these will take place in Fruitlands’ charming tea room, under the watchful eye of Miss Sears herself. What a perfect setting for such an evening—and in Harvard, of all places!

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