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Eileen's Country Kitchen: Roasted chestnuts for your holiday meal

Everyone knows the popular "Christmas Song," famous for its lyrics: "Chestnuts roasting on an open fire, Jack Frost nipping at your nose …", composed by song writer Bob Wells and vocalist Mel Tormé. The song was first recorded by Nat King Cole in 1946. Perhaps the song's fame contributed to strengthening the connection of roasting chestnuts with the Yuletime season.

Roasting chestnuts has long been a European custom; Spain, France, and Japan also include chestnuts in their cuisine. For more than 2,000 years, Castagno chestnuts have grown along the east coast of Italy and have been a staple of the Italian diet. The Roman legions planted chestnut trees to provide food for the vast army. Prior to corn, chestnuts were the primary component for making polenta and flour to make flatbread. Throughout the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries the chestnut became an ingredient in many recipes; it was considered a delicacy and used by chefs of aristocracy. Today, the aroma of roasted chestnuts fills the streets of Italian cities and towns during the Christmas season.

In large metropolitan cities such as New York, the old world tradition of roasting chestnuts is brought to the streets by vendors selling roasted chestnuts to pedestrians along the brightly decorated avenues as part of the holiday tradition. Most chestnuts available in the United States are imported from Italy, as many American chestnut trees were destroyed by disease. Chestnuts are also available canned, preserved in syrup, puréed, or as a cream, as well as frozen, already shelled. In France, candied chestnuts are a favorite and puréed chestnut sauce is used in tarts, over ice cream, and in dessert recipes. Chestnuts are an ingredient in meat dishes, soups, and poultry stuffing, as well as gluten-free, nutty flavored flour for pasta, breads, cakes, and desserts.

Getting to the nut meat can be a bit of a challenge. The dark brown shell is difficult to cut or penetrate, even with a sharp knife. (A small hand saw might be a better tool to have on hand!) However you manage to do so, cut the shell with a large "X" mark, and soak the nuts in water for 30 minutes. Drain and dry with a towel before cooking. The nuts can be roasted in a heated oven at 400 degrees F. or over an open fire. When choosing the oven method, place the chestnuts in a roasting pan or on a cookie sheet, and roast for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the shells begin to curl where they have been split. Allow the nuts to cool. If roasted on an open fire, it is best to use an authentic chestnut pan, a long-handled round pan with holes in the bottom and lid.

Once the nuts are cool to the touch, break open the shells to take out the meat. The nut meat appearance is similar to a large walnut, but twice the size; the meat is soft with a gamey, nutty flavor. To bring out the flavor of the nuts before eating, heat 2 tablespoons of butter in an ovenproof pan for each dozen chestnuts; add nuts and toss, coating them with butter. Return pan to oven and roast the nuts until golden brown. Skip this step if the chestnuts are to be used in a recipe. Chestnuts can be eaten after cooled or used in a variety of recipes.

Following are two recipes, one using fresh chestnuts and the other chestnut cream. Fresh chestnuts are available at local grocery stores from October to December. Chestnut cream can be found at specialty stores or on the Internet. Its texture is similar to pudding, but has the consistency of apple butter. Roasting chestnuts is, without a doubt, a lot of work, but this unique experience could become one of your family's annual traditions (along with listening to the "Christmas Song").

Roasted Chestnut Vegetable Cream Soup

1 leek, chopped
1 large carrot, chopped
1 large parsnip, chopped
1 stalk celery, chopped
⅓ cup chopped parsley
2 whole cloves
2 whole allspice or ¼ teaspoon ground
1 bay leaf
2 tablespoons butter
6 cups chicken broth
1 pound chestnuts, roasted and shelled
¼ cup heavy cream
¼ cup cider
salt and pepper to taste
Sour cream or plain yogurt
Croutons

Roast the chestnuts as described above. Toss carrot and parsnip with a tablespoon of olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place in a baking dish and roast in the oven at 400 degrees F. until tender, about 20 minutes.

Melt butter in a large saucepan over medium heat; add cloves, allspice, and bay leaf to flavor the pan. Add celery and leek, and cook until tender. Combine roasted vegetables and chestnuts with the spices, add half the parsley and the chicken broth; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes. Add cider, salt, and pepper. Purée two-thirds of the soup in a food processor. Return purée to the pan; add cream, and simmer five minutes before serving. Place a little yogurt or sour cream on top of each serving and sprinkle with parsley and croutons. Serves six.

Chocolate Chestnut Tart

Crust

2 cups ground chocolate cookies
¼ cup butter

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Melt ¼ cup butter. Stir in cookie crumbs. Press into 9-inch pie plate. Bake at 350 degrees F. for 10 minutes. Set aside.


Filling

1 1-pound can sweetened chestnut cream
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
5 eggs, separated
2 tablespoons brandy
Chocolate for shaving

Melt 4 tablespoons butter. Separate eggs; slightly beat yolks. Whisk together egg yolks and chestnut cream until light, thick, and smooth. Slowly stir in melted butter and brandy. In a separate bowl beat egg whites until stiff, then gently fold into chestnut mixture. Pour mixture into pie shell and bake for 25–30 minutes at 350 degrees F.

The tart will puff up like a soufflé and will later fall. Let cool. Shave chocolate over top before serving.

 

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