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Eileen's Country Kitchen: October is for apples

October is prime apple season. The apples are small this year, due to the lack of rain. However, they are still crisp and tasty for eating or baking.

Harvard is a popular destination for apple-pickers, with nearly two dozen varieties to select from at two commercial growers, Westward Orchards and Carlson Orchards, as well as several smaller orchards, Phil’s and Doe’s. Apples available for picking in late October include Golden Delicious, Ida Red, Northern Spy, Red Rome, Fuji, Mutsu-Crispen, Braeburn, Granny Smith, Pink Lady, Red Delicious, Cortland, Macoun, Gala, Empire, McIntosh, Roxbury Russet, Honeycrisp, Golden Supreme, Suncrisp, Enterprise, and Gold Rush.

Apples can be divided into several categories for eating raw, baking, cider, and sauce. Juicy apples are best for eating raw, whereas those with less juice are better for baking. Of the apples listed above, Northern Spy, Cortland, Macoun, Empire, Roxbury Russet, Braeburn, Rome, and Granny Smith are considered baking apples. Northern Spy was once referred to as the “apple pie apple” because it held up so well when baked.

Instead of apple pie or apple crisp, two apple desserts to try are crostata, an Italian tart, and clafoutis, a soufflé or custard dessert from the Limousin region of France. Any of the baking apples listed may be used for these desserts. A combination of apples will offer a variety of flavors.

Apple Crostata with Jam

Many people seem to be reluctant to make apple pie because they have difficulty making the crust. One way to tackle the fear of making pies is to practice with one-crust desserts, such as a tart or crostata. A crostata is an Italian baked dessert tart, a pie without a top crust. If the dough does not turn out perfect, no problem—it can be pieced together for a bottom crust that no one will see. It is traditionally prepared by folding the edges of the dough over the top of the fruit-and-jam filling, creating a more “rough” look, rather than a uniform, circular shape. This is a good recipe for the novice baker to practice making and rolling out one pastry round

Pastry (makes two pastry rounds)

2¼ cups all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon sugar
10 tablespoons cold, unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch pieces
5 tablespoons cold, butter-flavored shortening, cut into ½-inch pieces
1 egg
⅓ cup cold water (approximately)

Combine flour, sugar, and salt in a large bowl. Using a pastry blender or two knives, cut the butter and shortening into the flour mixture until it resembles coarse meal, with large pea-size bits of butter and shortening.

Refrigerate mixture for 10 minutes. Remove bowl from refrigerator. Whisk egg with water, and sprinkle 3 tablespoons over dry ingredients. Stir with a large spoon and continue adding liquid one tablespoon at a time until dough begins to clump together. Form dough into two balls, flatten into disk, wrap in waxed paper or plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 30 minutes. (Dough may be frozen for future use.)

Roll out pastry:  On a lightly floured surface (pastry mat), roll out one dough round until it is the desired size. Flip and rotate dough so that it does not stick to mat. If the dough cracks, pinch it together as needed. Place pastry in pie plate. Unlike a double-crust pie, the edges of this pastry do not need to be trimmed.

Tip: If pastry is difficult to handle (too dry), it may be pieced together in the pie plate. Moisten pieces with a little water to get them to stick together. Remember, no one sees the bottom of the pie.

Filling

6 to 8 cooking apples, peeled, sliced and cut into bite-size pieces
¼ cup jam of your choice (peach, raspberry, rhubarb, etc.)
¼ cup sugar
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon cinnamon

Place jam in the microwave for 10 seconds to mix smoothly. Mix sugar, flour, and cinnamon in a small bowl. Mix jam with apples and sprinkle with sugar mixture. Toss apples until well mixed. Pour mixture into prepared pastry. Fold edge of pastry over the top of the filling (it will not cover the entire filling). Brush the top with remaining egg/water mixture and sprinkle with sugar.

Line a cookie sheet with foil or parchment paper to catch any drippings. Bake at 400 degrees F. for 20 minutes. Turn oven temperature down to 375 and bake for an additional 25 to 30 minutes. Check the tenderness of the apples. If top is golden brown but apples are not done yet, cover pie with foil.

Tip: Fresh apples right off the tree can sometimes be very dry. If apples are not juicy after mixed with sugar, add 2 tablespoons orange juice or cider to the mixture.

Apple Cherry Clafoutis

This dessert is a cross between a soufflé and a custard in texture. A traditional clafouitis contains cherries.

2 eggs plus 2 extra yolks
¼ cup sugar
Pinch of salt
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
½ cup flour
¾ cup milk
½ cup cream
2 tablespoons butter
4 apples, peeled, cored, and chopped
¼ cup dried cherries
Salt
½ teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon mace (or substitute nutmeg)
2 tablespoons brandy
Sugar and cinnamon for sprinkling on top
Powdered sugar for dusting

Blend eggs, sugar, salt, and vanilla in a food processor for 30 seconds. Add flour and blend until smooth. With motor running, pour in milk and cream and blend. Set mixture aside for 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Prepare apples. Melt butter in a large skillet. Add apples, sugar, spices, and salt; sauté apples until tender, about five minutes; stir frequently. Remove pan from heat and add brandy and dried cherries. Return to heat and cook for another two minutes. Let apples cool. Butter a shallow baking dish. Lay apples in dish and cover with egg-cream mixture. Sprinkle top with sugar and cinnamon. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes or until mixture is puffed and golden and a knife inserted into the center comes out clean. Dust with powdered sugar and serve warm. Serves six.rice.

Filed under: Features, Recipes
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