"Went to Marblehead. It was four miles out of the way, but I wanted to see it."  —George Washington

One of Marblehead’s beautiful homes seen on a walking tour of the town. (Photo by Julie Moberly)

The charm that lured George Washington four miles out of his way more than 200 years ago is still very much present in the Marblehead of today, a small town with a pitch-perfect blend of New England: a scenic harbor, pre-Revolutionary architecture, a little bit of history, and enough retail whimsy to make walking the streets of downtown a wonderful way to spend an autumn afternoon.

Today's journey from Harvard center can be made in slightly over an hour. A little forewarning before heading north, however: finding a parking spot on a nice afternoon can be a bit of a hunt, and the town is not a good pick for those with mobility problems. Those concerns aside, Marblehead is a great walking town with its hilly, terraced streets that host a historic blend of merchants' homes, shipbuilders' mansions, and fishermen's cottages, many with attractive terraced gardens and lush window boxes sporting American flags. To keep your bearings, find the Chamber of Commerce in the center of town, at 62 Pleasant St., for a map that also features lists of accommodations, restaurants, shops, galleries, and museums.

For history buffs, Marblehead has two notable museums. While closed the day we visited, a return trip is in order to see the original "Spirit of '76" painting created by Archibald Willard. Housed in Abbott Hall, the iconic painting of two drummers and a fifer hangs in the selectmen's meeting room. Admission is free, and the museum is open daily Monday through Friday from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Weekend hours are sometimes available, but it's best to call ahead for more information. Just a few blocks away is the Jeremiah Lee Mansion, a beautiful Colonial Georgian home erected in 1768 for Colonel Jeremiah Lee, who at that time was the wealthiest merchant and ship owner in Massachusetts. The beautifully preserved mansion features 18 rooms of original furnishings, including rare 18th-century English hand-painted wallpapers and opulent woodwork. The Jeremiah Lee Mansion is open 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday, June through October, and admission is $5 per person.

From very casual to more elegant, Marblehead offers a variety of options for dining out. Because of the beautiful weather on the day we visited, we chose to sit outside at the Landing Restaurant overlooking the harbor. The menu featured classic New England fare like Ipswich clams, lobster rolls, and clam chowder, as well as regional brews and wine. The lovely view overlooking the pleasure craft moored in the harbor made the Landing an idyllic location, and we lingered over a second cup of coffee just to enjoy the scenery.

A postprandial walk through the shopping district uncovered a variety of stores for every taste. Within a one-block radius are a number of dress shops for women, as well as a beautiful store with European clothing for children. A large stationery store and a rare book store were fabulous for browsing. For an espresso pick-me-up or a bottle of wine for dinner, Foodie's Feast on Washington Street appeared to be a popular choice with both tourists and locals. The elegant Flores Mantilla florist shop featured a large selection of unusual, sophisticated wreaths, as well as an exquisite collection of orchids.

While our trip to Marblehead took place on a long afternoon, there are many choices for an overnight stay. The setting is perfect for a romantic weekend, and the list of accommodations provided by the Chamber of Commerce describes 19 different inns and B & Bs, many near the water and within walking distance of downtown. Everything from pencil-post beds by the fireplace to harbor views is on offer, and the only difficulty making a decision is being spoiled for choice.

For more information on Marblehead, go to www.marblehead.org or visit Marblehead's Chamber of Commerce at 62 Pleasant St. For more information on the viewing "Spirit of '76" or touring the Jeremiah Lee Mansion, visit www.marbleheadmuseum.org.