Asian fare outside of or in Boston does not get much better than at Tobiko, and whether you’re an adventurous or conservative diner, you will find something appealing on the menu. On a Friday night, our party entered the moderately full dining area, past a 10-seat bar area with funky pendant lights creating a warm glow. A few high top tables round out the bar, providing a pleasant spot to wait for the rest of your group to arrive.
Tobiko is the Japanese word for flying fish roe, the crunchy, reddish-orange or green eggs used in creating certain types of sushi, and its manifestation stretches beyond the orbs suspended above the dining tables. Tables, chairs and booths are pale wood, contributing to the elegantly simple, comfortable setting; a sushi bar at one end of the dining room seats nine.
We began with a combination of appetizers from the sushi and kitchen menus. Uza-ku ($8.25), barbecued eel, avocado and tobiko rolled in thinly sliced cucumber, was presented stunningly in a pool of sweet vinegar, complementing the fresh mix of crispy, creamy and chewy textures. Mini Shrimp Spring Rolls ($5.25) were warm, crunchy and light, accompanied by a sweet chili sauce. Crispy Oysters ($6.50) arrived piping hot and were judged delicious. Sushi Submarine ($9.95) needs a name change, but was still unanimously deemed the surprise hit of the evening – tuna, salmon, barbecued eel and spicy octopus wrapped with sushi rice, then crisped ever so slightly – again delivering an unexpected balance of textures, with an enjoyable, lingering kick. Sai Wu Minced Beef soup ($6.25) had a hot-and-sour-soup viscosity and bits of beef, tofu, egg, mushroom and fresh Chinese coriander – mild flavors, and we readily classified it as comfort food on a cold fall evening.
Next, we chose a variety of dishes from the nigiri sushi menu, including striped bass ($4.05), white tuna ($4.50) and yellow tail ($4.50), and three different maki rolls: Spider Maki ($10.50), the traditional roll with soft shell crab, avocado, cucumber, tobiko and a spicy mayo that added just the right fiery zest; the classic Spicy Tuna Maki ($5.75); and Volcano Maki ($13.95), which scored high points for creativity with its mountain-shaped, post-eruption-like arrangement, perhaps a bit over the top in its attempt to combine too many flavors in one dish – baked scallop, crab stick, shiitake and enoki mushrooms, flying fish roe, a spicy sweet mayo and generously sprinkled crispy bonito flakes. The bonito flakes made a repeat appearance atop Yaki Udon ($12.95) - a stir fry of thick wheat noodles, shrimp, asparagus, baby corn and carrots, in a savory, soy-based sauce – where the heat rising from the noodles made the bonito undulate eerily, providing great amusement. Finally, we shared Tango Mango Duck ($16.95), a perfectly cooked, pan-seared duck breast, sliced and ready for dipping into either of the sauces provided – one a red wine reduction, the other a mango puree – accompanied by sliced squash, potato and other vegetables. Full-flavored miso soups and customary salads with ginger dressing accompanied our entrée choices. For dessert, we enjoyed selections of ginger and red bean ice cream (coconut and green tea flavors are also offered).
Tobiko excels at presentation, and the effort shows. Each dish arrives on an interestingly shaped and artistically composed plate. The menu is extensive, and also offers traditional Asian fare such as Crispy Beef, General Gau’s Chicken, a long list of noodle dishes, several vegetarian options and even inexpensive Vietnamese Pho soups.
The wait staff is friendly and helpful, and easily accommodated special requests. In addition to a full bar, Tobiko has well-rounded and reasonably-priced wine, beer and sake lists. Cost averaged $28 per person, before tip, but you could pay far less and still leave sated. … and anxious to return to Tobiko to try something else from the menu.
The Food Whisperer is Shaker Road resident Mark Mikitarian.