Unless you’re actively seeking out Vietnamese food, you might never think to explore Pho 88, which sits next to a nail salon in a plaza near the busy Drum Hill rotary in Chelmsford. I first ventured there many years ago when the inside looked much like a take-out pizza joint. Since then, it’s gone through at least two iterations, most recently expanding into a larger space, presumably in response to growing popularity. The renovation yielded a more spacious main dining room, a second, smaller and quieter dining area toward the back, and a large bar area, complete with large-screen televisions and plenty of bar seating for solo diners. Thankfully, the owners retained the never-seen-anywhere-else scallop-shell light fixtures throughout the restaurant, which have been a highlight of so many conversations during my meals there.

If you haven’t experienced Vietnamese food before, you’re in for a treat; if you have, you’ll find all your favorite dishes here. We always start with the fresh spring rolls or Goi Cuon ($3.75)—soft rice paper rolls stuffed with lettuce, carrots, fresh mint, rice vermicelli, and chicken, pork, shrimp, or tofu. The rolls are served cold (not fried), with a peanut dipping sauce, but you may also request a sweet sauce (Nuoc cham), made with fermented fish sauce, a traditional Southeast Asian cooking ingredient. On our most recent visit, we ventured into uncharted territory and tried the Nem Nuong, or grilled spicy hamcake ($6.50). Six strikingly red, pork “meatballs” came grilled on skewers like kabobs, accompanied by a colorful plate of seasoned shredded carrot and daikon, and bright green watercress. While not as spicy as some might hope, they were flavorful and filling.

In addition to a long list of appetizers, the menu also offers a number of fresh-tasting salads ($7.95–$8.95) that we’ve tried in the past, all combining fresh mint and basil, shredded carrots and cabbage, ground peanuts, onions, and a sweet and sour dressing; variations include tofu, chicken, or shrimp.

The restaurant’s namesake dish, Pho, comprises a variety of hearty, meal-sized, noodle soups that are inside-out body-warming in the winter, but certainly delicious year-round. The base of each soup is a rich, flavorful broth resulting from many hours of simmering beef (and sometimes chicken) bones, oxtails, charred onion, and spices (cinnamon, star anise, charred ginger, cloves, and black cardamom pods). Each soup ($6.95-$7.95) comes with rice noodles, scallions, onions, and cilantro, and different combinations of steak, brisket, beef flank, tendon, and tripe. The chicken noodle version comes with a generous helping of shredded white chicken meat. All come accompanied by a plate of bean sprouts, fresh basil, lime wedges, and green chili peppers, allowing you to adjust the flavor to your own taste. Add a little hoisin, and then spice it up with a squirt of Sriracha (hot sauce).

Don’t be afraid to bring your non-carnivore friends with you, as Pho 88’s extensive menu offers a full selection of vegetarian choices, as well. Two solid choices are: the Dau Hu Ca Ry ($9.50), combining a delicious yellow curry base with tofu and a mixture of carrots, red peppers, zucchini, onions, and mushrooms; and the Dau Hu Xao Cai Ro ($9.95), tofu sautéed with fresh Chinese broccoli.

Pho 88 has a full bar, as well as an assortment of Vietnamese beverages. My favorite in summer is Soda Chanh ($2.75), a sparkling limeade made with fresh lime juice. For dessert, kids and adults alike will enjoy (and be entertained by) the fruit-flavored Bubble Teas—a sort of frozen fruit smoothie (try the Taro or Green Tea Honeydew flavors) with large, black, gummy tapioca “pearls” that sit on the bottom of the cup, and which you suck up through a brightly-colored, oversize straw.

The service is always friendly and attentive here, and the atmosphere and noise level are comfortable, even when the restaurant is full. If you’re worried about mispronouncing something while ordering (it’s almost impossible not to, actually), just order by number—you and the wait staff will both appreciate it.

Comments? Beefs? Whines? Recommendations? Email Mark Mikitarian, the Food Whisperer, at foodwhisperer@charter.net.